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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary honour.